Not all that glitters is gold—but occasionally, it very much is.

Loureiro, the most “mainstream” (read: most widely planted) grape of Vinho Verde, has a knack for gleaming—though only in the right hands, growing from the right kind of place.

A heads-up: this wine is no longer produced at the estate. Which makes no difference—memories of it can still (remember Anselmo Mendes’ Muros Antigos 2008?) flip your entire perception of Vinho Verde and its sparklers.

This particular potion was made the old-fashioned way—100% Loureiro, four months on lees in stainless steel, then a further sixteen in bottle. The dosage post-disgorgement? A restrained 5 grams per litre. On paper, it reads like a top-tier espumante: anything aged over a year in bottle is serious business in Portugal—and, frankly, anywhere.

If someone happens to pour you a glass of Bruto Reserva 2015 casually—no intro, no reverence—stop them. Gently, but firmly. This wine demands ceremony. Especially when it’s a seven-year-old sparkling Vinho Verde that deserves to sit shoulder to shoulder with the likes of João Portugal Ramos’ Brut Nature Alvarinho—possibly even with a bit more bite.

Winemaker Miguel Viseu and estate owner Vasco Croft clearly know where their hands are—and, crucially, where they’re growing from. Someone once called Croft “soul and soil”—a lovely phrase, if rather opaque. But once you taste this wine, you get it. This isn’t one of those easygoing bottles that disappear before you even notice. A seven-year-old Loureiro demands your attention—makes you pause and mutter: what is this sorcery? The bubbles are plush, bordering on autumnal, the structure deftly woven, the delivery pitch-perfect. It lingers longer than expected, tickles just enough, and leaves you musing that this is the kind of Portuguese authenticity you’d happily drink and drink again.

Texture, length, beauty: this seven-year-old Loureiro borders on miraculous.

Drinkability: All-NighterYou could refill your glass all night and still want more
Sensory impact: LifterCrisp, clean, and palate-resetting; makes the day feel lighter
Occasion: Food AllyThe dish-hugger that elevates every bite